Many travelers to Europe and beyond transit Frankfurt’s massive airport. Very often there are
layovers, sometimes hours other times days. But the airport is a short train ride from Frankfurt’s
gleaming skyline and ever-clean city scape. Majestic skyscrapers mix with tree lined streets and
intimate European cafes. Large well-kept parks are busy with strolling seniors, families and
dogs. Set among these features is the lovely Palm Garten, one of Europe’s finest public gardens.
The Palm Garten was designed by the landscape architect Heinrich Siesmayer. Modern Frankfurt
features many public spaces influenced by Siesmayer’s work. Opened to the public in 1871 the
Palm Garten became a large attraction for Frankfurt socialites and ultimately an important
repository for plants being collected in the wet and dry tropics. At the time Germany was a
global leader in plant exploration. Much of systematic botany’s early progress came from
Germany scientists. One of the world’s largest Herbarium collections was destroyed in Berlin
during World War II. The Palm Garten also suffered major damage during the war. Following
the American occupation the site was returned to city authorities in the fifties. After which a
major renovation occurred.
At the entrance an important horticultural display is found. Several windmill palms are planted in
front of the gate house. These are said to be the most cold-tolerant palms in the world. I
remember seeing them in Wuhan China
where winter can be fairly cold. However,
I’ll never forget stumbling upon a large
specimen in a Eugene, Oregon school yard.
It was during a very cold and snowy winter
storm. The broad fan-shaped fronds stood
upright as if it was a sunny subtropical day.
Since then plant breeders have created new
varieties for cold tolerance. These trees
appeared to be planted permanently.
Windmill palms are known to grow in
North America too. The Palm Garten gatehouse is a curious
entrance-way with a few tropical trees in
the lobby, plus the front desk and gift shop.
In this building the real treat is upstairs.
Two separate rooms display a cacophonous
collection of smaller tropical and
subtropical plants. Several very large
terrariums house different plants arranged
by habitat. Surely the most fascinating is
the carnivorous plant enclosure. Small
enough to mimic micro-climates with
remarkable accuracy, tiny plants like sundew can be observed in remarkable detail. Next to them
are the vase-like pitcher plants native to North America, with two species found in Southeast.
These clever plants have evolved various traps to ensnare visiting insects. Once captured, the
insects dissolve overtime providing nutrients for the plants. Gazing at these enclosures it
occurred to me what a wonderful teaching resource they are. At the same time a group of
elementary students noisily arrived with work sheets in hand.
Once inside, the gardens 54 acres expands in several directions demarcated by beautiful seasonal
beds expanding to formal pools and forested lakes. At the center is the House Rosenbrunn, a
lovely light filled cottage surrounded by the colorful annual garden. Further afield is the Boat
Pond where paddle boats can be rented. A notable rock garden sits above the lake and
rhododendron garden skirts the north shore. A fine collection of temperate trees invites visitors
to stroll in the shade. Heather gardens and a bamboo collection are located beyond the trees. As
lovely as the outdoor collections are, it’s the remarkable size and diversity of the conservatories
that make the Palm Garten an institution of national prominence in Germany.
The traditional palm house is exceptionally large, the oldest of the conservatories, its devoted to
the humid tropics. The moist, organic air immediately instills a sense of wonder as vines, palms,
huge Ficus trees and bird nest ferns drip water in an atmospheric cooperative that could be cut
with a knife. A large rock terrace with a stream and waterfall add an audible reality to the setting.
Various local birds dart between tree canopies in search of emerging fruits and insects. Like most
conservatories it’s a meticulously fabricated ecosystem under glass, but the size and plant
diversity are truly engrossing.
Closer to the entrance is the Tropicarium, a modern collection of angular conservatories
interconnected and featuring the wet tropics of the world. Thus you can stroll through a patch of
Amazonia, the Congo Basin, South East Asia, Queensland Australia or New Guinea and
compare the differing plant species. German scientists and explorers largely invented the science
of plant geography during the age of discovery. Much of this work was based on describing
plants and forests as connected to landforms and geology. Many German universities still offer
degrees in Geobotany. The Tropicarium embodies this noble tradition of German naturalists
traveling the world. Indeed, there was a university classes being held during my visit.
There’s another set of conservatories featuring the dry tropics with similar biogeographic
themes. Once again student groups were diligently taking notes while an instructor discussed
some unusual species from coastal Namibia.
The Palm Garten is an unparalleled classroom for students of plant science and anyone interested
in walking a remarkably well kept public garden. Exhibits, education and superb ornamental
horticulture are all on display in addition to rotating art exhibits. Only a short train ride and urban
stroll from the airport and one of Europe’s great gardens is at your fingertips. That requisite
layover in Frankfurt for long haul trips offers more options than waiting at the next departure.
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