Smithsonian Associates Shenandoah National Park, October 20th and 21st

I’ll be returning to Shenandoah National Park leading the Smithsonian associates tour on Sunday and Monday, October 20 and 21st. We’ll be there for the height of the fall color change and stay at the historic Big Meadows Lodge. Two moderate 3 to 4 mile hikes will touch on flora, wildlife, geology, climate and local natural history. 

Interpretive highlights include:

-Land assignment statement and a brief review of Paleo, Archaic and Woodland Indian habitation of the mid-Atlantic 

-Evolution of the Appalachian Mountains and Shenandoah in particular

-Regional ancient volcanism as related to modern topography

-Differing geologic features including Greenstone, Old Rag Granite and Sandstones found south of our location

-Glacial Effects on the regions native biota and corresponding post glacial northward migration of forest communities from southern refugia 

-Modern forest composition of Oak-Hickory woodlands and the demise of American Chestnut trees

-Survey of Common Native Wildflowers and Birds

-Native mammals of the park with an emphasis on bear life-history and human interactions

- Current conservation issues and invasive species with a focus plants

Cross Country May 2024

I’m currently driving from Washington DC to North Cascades National Park on the Canadian border in Washington state. This is my second summer volunteering for the national park service. Last week I started the journey at Seneca Rocks West Virginia, after providing a natural history program for the rock climbing guides at the Seneca Rocks climbing school. After more than a week of travel I’ll reach my summer volunteer assignment. Driving through the Midwest I was careful to avoid areas experiencing recent tornadoes. Once further West, I was able visit Death Valley, Canyon de Chelly, the Mt. Whitney region and Mt. Shasta. 

I’ve passed through 20 different eco-regions from east to west. Happy to report that the Sierras and Death Valley look good after a season of late snowfall and even some rain. This is in addition to the hurricane that passed over Death Valley last year. The floral diversity at the mid elevations of Death Valley is remarkable with many herbaceous angiosperms and full bloom. I also had the opportunity to visit the absolutely stunning Lake Tahoe for the second time. A lake of this magnitude in such a location is nearly unparalleled in the world. The backdrop of the northern Sierras to the west of the lake makes for a fascinating and beautiful place to visit. Onto Bend, Oregon to visit with family and visit the notable volcanic Tuff formations at Smith Rock State Park.

Keynote Address for the 6th Annual Prince William Wildflower Symposium February 10th, 2024: Topic Review

 

On Saturday February 11th I delivered the keynote talk at the Prince William Wildflower Society 6^th Annual Symposium. This was an honor and great opportunity to discuss one of my favorite subjects about mixing garden aesthetics with a further understanding of landscape ecology. Many vocational gardeners, even relatively sophisticated native plant gardeners, don't have a grasp of landscape ecology as a basic tenant of supporting conservation in the garden and in the wild.

Reflecting my own interest, I discussed the origins of our native plants from preglacial Tertiary Forest distribution, Pleistocene glaciation and postglacial forest migration from southern refugia in peninsular Florida and southeastern North America. Through this approach I hope to enhance the general knowledge of native plant gardeners and encourage them to consider a holistic approach to the landscape through the increased understanding of paleoecology and modern landscape ecology.

 

Landscape ecology is the science of studying and improving relationships between ecological processes in the environment and particular ecosystems. This is done within a variety of landscape scales including biogeography, ecoregions, historical geology, climate and continually emerging conservation issues.

Concisely, landscape ecology can be described as the science of landscape diversity as the synergetic result of biodiversity and geodiversity.

 

In addition, I introduced the concept of Ecoregions. Ecoregions cover relatively large areas of land or water, and contain characteristic, geographically distinct assemblages of natural communities and species. The biodiversity of flora, fauna and ecosystems that characterize an ecoregion tends to be distinct from that of other ecoregions. Think the Adirondacks, Everglades, the Sonoran Desert, Ozark Mountains or Great Lakes forests. Currently there are 115 major ecoregions described in North America. Every single one is unique and can be on display by landscaping with native plants. Embracing your ecoregion is fostering a sense of place that makes gardens truly unique while increasing environmental and aesthetic quality.

As a final part of the introduction, I also discussed the geography and topography of river basins in the Mid-Atlantic of North America. This is a remarkably diverse area with various elevations, craggy peaks, mountain valleys, hard rock channels, wetlands, broad alluvial fans and complex geology. Ultimately, these settings produce a diversity of landscapes that harbor considerable plant diversity.

 The following terms are used routinely in the presentation in hopes of profiling both Landscape Ecology and Ecoregions.

 

Floristic- what plants grow where and why

 

Ecology- Interrelationships of organisms including biotic and abiotic factors

 

Biogeography- spatial distribution of organisms or biomes

 

Ecoregions- include geology, landforms, soils, vegetation, climate, land use, wildlife, and hydrology.

 

Geomorphology- evolution of landforms/topography

 

Endemic- small range of distribution, common in island floras

 

Indigenous- native but with a wider geographic range.

 

The mid-section of the presentation profiles 25 plants that are unique or nearly unique to the Mid-Atlantic region. This is based in part on the seminal book Floristic Regions of the World by Armen Takhtajan. Takhtajan describes a “Floristic Geography” denoting species that are particularly characteristic of the floristic regions around the world. Predictably the endemic kingdoms of Hawaii, New Caledonia the Cape province of South Africa and Canary Islands get a great deal of attention. But, cosmopolitan continental floras also reveal a great deal of variety, not so focused on endemism but based on plant diversity due to complex past migrations and ecoregion distribution.

 

In the case of mid-Atlantic North America, Takhtajan almost 100 species. A few examples: Pawpaw (Asimnia triloba), Sweet Fern (Comptonia peregrina), Virginia Magnolia (Magnolia Virginiana), Leatherwood (Dirca palustris), Wild Ginger (Asarum canadesne), Basswood (Tilia amareicana), Clethra (Clethra acumininata), Cliff Green (Paxistima canbyi), Wood Poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum), Goats Beard (Aruncus dioicus), Bladdernut (Staphylea trifolia), Fringe tree (Chionanthus virginiana) and numerous Rhododendron species to name a few. (See page 85 in chapter two.) I actively encourage native plant gardeners (and public gardens) to include these plants in their collections.

 

The last portion of this presentation addresses coalescing environmental issues that are actively effecting our local and global environment. Predictably, we discuss climate change and look at possible scenarios for the mid-Atlantic region where warmer, wetter conditions are expected- punctuated by occasional droughts. Fall of 2023 was an excellent example of regional drought complete with local forest fires, mainly in the mountains. We look at plants we can now grow including Musa basjoo the banana native to Southern Japan. In addition, we discuss the proliferation of various invasive species including naturalized, adventive and introduced. 

I also cover rapidly emerging advances in genetic technology. Twenty years ago, I coined the term MGR for the Molecular Genetic Revolution with Smithsonian Groups, mainly borne out of new cloning technology. This has now been eclipsed by CRISPR (Clustered Regularly Interspaced Palindromic Repeats). The current focus of CRISPR is on various exciting medical applications. In particular, Cystic Fibrosus and Sickle Cell Anemia among other maladies. I suggest this technology will find application in the vast world of plant biology and have influence on both crop production and conservation issues.

 

Over the past few years work on the American Chestnut has largely abandoned breeding efforts with the Chinese Chestnut in favor of a tree altered with CRISPR technology. Thus, a non-crop genetically modified organism (GMO) focused on conservation and restoration is being planted widely in the Northeastern United States. This is not without controversy, but recently the Sierra Club endorsed the effort.

 

Beyond bringing back near-extinct species, I posit a different, yet unanswered question. Is it possible CRISPR could be used to alter the reproductive cycle of various invasive weeds. Could Japanese Knotweed or Stilt Grass be modified to become sterile and simply fade away over time?

 

My hope is to encourage planting of regional native species everywhere, not just gardens but commercial landscapes, city centers and elsewhere. This relates directly to Doug Tallamy’s focus on food webs in native vegetation and insect diversity that underlies the ecosystems we depend on. Spanning the natural history of our native forests in combination with ecoregions, landscape ecology and geomorphic phenomena I hope to foster a deeper appreciation of our native flora. Closing with the questions of climate change and genetic advances should further illustrate the dynamic environmental continuum we are living in- the soon to be coined the Anthropocene.  

 

 

Fall 2023 Programs with NOVA Parks and Winkler Botanical Preserve

Fall 2023 also included a series of activities at the Winkler botanical preserve. As noted in a previous post the preserve has recently become the property of Nova parks, this is a celebrated development as the property will be properly preserved for perpetuity. The preserve is making great headway in programming with local public schools on a series of environmental topics for which it is ideally suited. Several of the schools are located nearby in urban Alexandria and adjacent Fairfax County. They are in many ways fascinating bastions of internationally oriented immigrant communities. It's not uncommon to have 25 languages spoken in a single school, so it makes for a wonderful visit when these classrooms come for a variety of different activities.

Teachers and assisting parents are similarly fascinated with the preserves proximity and seeming remoteness in the city setting. The teacher’s participation in these trips is highly important not only for student involvement but also to see informal educators working with students. This is sometimes a foreign concept to a classroom teacher who is by design wed to a specific measurable curriculum in the school setting, as it should be. Informal educators often based at cultural institutions such as nature centers, public gardens, zoos, aquaria and various other museums are ultimately interpreters of collections both preserved and living. In the case of a Parkland such as the preserve the interpretation is focused on the literal environment and all its fascinating living and non-living components.

While several of these activities are game focused to mimic ecological processes, there's little doubt in my mind that the real value of the visit is simply being exposed to the preserves relatively pristine forest, lake and remarkable man-made waterfall. When meeting the kids at the local apartment complex parking lot than walking for 5 minutes into the preserve you can literally see the fascination in their eyes as they walk into this well-kept woodland seemingly hidden among the expansive urbanity. An important aspect of this type of visit is to realize that most of the nature these kids see is poorly tended and overused local parks often featuring non-native plants and even invasive species. The exposure to the preserve gives him a genuine taste of a native woodland and access to that subtle but consistent feeling of peace in a natural setting.

Fall 2023 Busy Interpretive Schedule with Smithsonian Associates and NOVA Parks

 

Upon returning from North Cascades National Park, the fall of 2023 unfolded with a busy interpretive schedule. Preparations for the Smithsonian Associates Shenandoah Natural History Weekend took precedence in addition to two long scheduled Great Fall Sunrise Hikes. The Shenandoah trip was particularly enjoyable given an excellent group dynamic and variable weather conditions. An unstable low-pressure system was transitioning over the mid-Atlantic with considerable, but unconsolidated precipitation. Our Saturday “Hollow” hike had just a brief shower and overcast sky.

 After Saturday’s evening lecture on the general natural history of the park, Sunday beckoned with slowly clearing sky’s with multi-textured Fairweather cumulus clouds taking shape as winds increased and temperatures dropped through the day. The group had variable levels of preparedness but persevered well as we ascended parts of the Appalachian Trail and upward towards the summit of Stony Man Mountain.

Interpretive priorities included:

-Land assignment statement and a brief review of Paleo, Archaic and Woodland Indian habitation of the mid-Atlantic

-Evolution of the Appalachian Mountains and Shenandoah in particular

-Regional ancient volcanism as related to modern topography

-Differing geologic features including Greenstone, Old Rag Granite and Sandstones found south of our location

-Glacial Effects on the Regions Native Biota and corresponding post glacial northward migration of forest communities from southern refugia

-Modern forest composition of Oak-Hickory woodlands and the demise of American Chestnut trees

-Survey of Common Native Wildflowers and Birds

-Native mammals of the park with an emphasis on bear life-history and human interactions

- Current conservation issues and invasive species with a focus plants

 

North Cascades National Park (NOCA) Complex Volunteer Summer 2023

As a prolific national park user for nearly fifty years, I’m hoping to return the favor as an NPS Volunteer this summer. I arrived on July 15th and will depart on September 10th. A leisurely nine day drive out from Washington DC allowed for visiting many excellent state parks. My duties focus on supporting NPS Ranger and Interpretive staff in busy front country campgrounds and working with the public in the lovely visitor center. Campgrounds are particularly busy, often full and require consistent customer interaction, interpretation of rules and yes- some limit setting. All things I’ve done for decades. Staff is notably intergenerational and widely experienced in several parks around the county. Surprisingly to me, many are seasonal with much less job security than I would have expected. That said, they’re a dedicated group working hard to provide excellent customer service in a stunningly beautiful park. 

I was thrilled to find visitor center exhibits often map focused, including an excellent 3-d relief map anchoring the main lobby. The adjacent gallery features regional forest types as defined by prominent tree species. In effect it’s a plant/forest geography exhibit. Predictably, I could hardly be more at home with this subject matter. The exhibits also include a good section on local mountaineering. NOCA is home to some of the finest alpine climbing on the continent including large glaciers, ice and numerous classic rock climbs. Geology and hydrology are famously complex including strato-volcanoes, granite spires, classic glowing green glacial lakes, hard-rock river channels, large co-alluvial fans and numerous steep waterfalls.  

Like most National Parks, North Cascades attracts thousands of visitors each year. Abutting the Canadian border it’s a wonderland of cerulean lakes, seemingly endless alpine summits and steep glaciers. In fact, North Cascades boasts more glaciers than anywhere else in the lower forty-eight states. It’s a recreational paradise offering hiking, boating, camping and world class alpine climbing. Front country and backcountry adventures abound. Five busy campgrounds, an informative visitor center and a wilderness information office provide visitors with a springboard to enjoy the extensive offerings. The visitor center hosts interpretive programs, an auditorium and excellent exhibits on the park's forests and delicate alpine ecosystems. 

North Cascades National Park Complex is unique in its operational geography. That’s mainly because the Ross Lake National Recreation area is embedded within the park. Spatially the recreation area hosts all campsites and the visitor center. Thus, North Cascades proper is divided into north and south units. These are primarily backcountry wilderness areas.  Collectively the entire area is administered by the Department of Interior and staffed by National Park Service Rangers supplemented by volunteers. While the National Park Service is funded by federal expenditures approved by Congress there is revenue generated at various locations. Curiously there is no typical National Park entrance station as visitors initially enter through the recreation area. Thus, it's the bustling campgrounds that generate most enterprise revenue. 

When visitors arrive at a National Park there is an expectation for excellence. After all, United States National Parks are widely seen as the world’s best park system and conservation agency. Add to that the presence of national park rangers with the trademark Smokey the Bear hat, it's an enduring aesthetic denoting protection of our national treasures. While the visitor center is busy interpreting for the public, campgrounds require detailed customer service integrated with reservations made exclusively online, often many months in advance. It’s incumbent on campground staff to work in a continuum of potential cancellations, late arrivals and of course parties arriving with no reservations. Demand almost always outpaces availability. 

Typical communications in the front country campsites focus on a number of areas that involve reducing the impact of campers as a whole. One of the most important aspects of this is bear education. Black bears are common throughout the region and will be found in campsites on occasion. It's imperative the campers understand storing food properly is of the highest importance. It's very important to the health of bears not to consume human food. Black bears are intuitive and can easily open coolers that are left outside and not in the campsite bear box. Rangers spend considerable time ensuring that food is stored properly and bear encounters are minimized.

Another aspect of environmental impact in campsites is managing vegetation for minimum impact. The vegetation of the cascades is rich with huge trees, delicate ferns and beautiful wildflowers abound. Each campsite has a limit to the number of people that can occupy the space. Ideally all tents fit within the assigned site and do not impact the adjacent vegetation. Collectively the health of the vegetation is an ecological and aesthetic asset to the campground. 

All reservations are made in advance on recreation.gov. This system works remarkably well but requires specific staff skills online and in person. Staff coordinates the online reservations with arriving campers in person. Each morning campsite posts are updated with the arriving parties’ last name. Through the day staff and volunteers will interact with campers, ensuring proper site allocation and general adherence to various basic rules. This is the realm of “compliance issues” often requiring keen observation and limit setting skills. This single area of customer service is central to ensuring an orderly campground and customer satisfaction. Every online reservation requires reading the rules. Ideally folks are well informed when they arrive- or maybe not.

New Smithsonian Associates Botanical Gardens of the World Zoom programs in 2024

 New dates for Smithsonian Associates Botanical Gardens of the World 2024! 

Sundays, February 4th, 11th & 18th. Stay tuned for speakers and topics! 

American Horticultural Society Morocco Trip March 2023

Some photos from the American Horticultural Society trip to Morocco in March 2023. We visited many public and private gardens in addition to numerous UNESCO sites. I hosted this trip along with British and Moroccan staff. We spent time in Tangier, Fez, Rabat and Marrakech plus smaller cities and rural locations. Morocco remains one of the worlds great destinations with a near perfect combination of exotic culture, history, cuisine, remarkable physical geography and excellent tourist infrastructure. The influence of Islam is endemic, intriguing and inviting. An article featuring this remarkable trip is in the current issue of the American Gardener.

 Shenandoah National Park Natural History Weekend with Smithsonian Associates

Sunday and Monday October 15th & 16th.

www.smithsonianassociates.org

 New Dates for Great Fall Sunrise Hikes with Smithsonian Associates

September 23rd, 24th and 30th 2023

www.smithsonianassociates.org

 New Smithsonian Associates Zoom Program 

Assateague: A Natural History Primer

Evening Lecture/Seminar

Thursday Mach 30th 2023 - 7:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.

New Smithsonian Associate Programs- Botanic Gardens World Tour

The Royal Botanic Gardens Kew and 

the Eden Project

February 5th 4 p.m.

Additional Programs:

Singapore Botanic Gardens and Norfolk Botanic Gardens

With Chelsea Mahaffey

Sunday, February 12 4-5:30 p.m.

Tempel Gardens of Kyoto Japan

With Holly Shimizu

Sunday, February 19 4-5:30 p.m.

register at- www.smithsonianassociates.org

The Winkler Botanical Preserve - NOVA Parks newest park

 

This article appeared in the Virginia Sportsman in 2016. I’m posting it now in celebration of the Preserve becoming a public park. Congratulations to NOVA Parks and the Winkler Foundation for achieving this notable collaboration for public access and enrichment. The gift of the Preserve to NOVA Parks included a substantial endowment demonstrating remarkable generosity on the part of the Foundation. NOVA Parks is already offering outdoor education programs and planning summer camps. Please note the herbaceous vegetation has changed somewhat in the past several years due to increased deer activity.

 

Virginias Truly Secret Garden: The Winkler Botanical Preserve

The city of Alexandria has a finite amount of land, there’s only so much open space. City parks often follow winding stream valleys, wetlands and occasionally the forested hilltop or adjoining slope. Many parks have a specific recreation function, while others feature winding trails and bike paths. Yet one of the largest tracts of natural forest in the city is entirely in private hands. This is the Winkler Botanical Preserve. In development for three decades the Preserve has become a remarkable open space on the western margin of the city. Essentially a stream valley hemmed in by office buildings and residential development it’s a green treasure of native forest in an extensive but discreet naturalized landscape setting.

It started as a favored picnic location for Mark Winkler and his family as he bought and developed large tracts of western Alexandria in the post war years. Ultimately the family would decide to conserve the area and establish a managing philanthropic foundation. Catherine Winkler Herman, noted Patron of the arts, education, science and conservation would steward the Preserves unique mission until her death in 2007. While regional development moved forward at breakneck speed, the foundation had the insight to conserve and dramatically improve the woodlands that would become the Preserve. In between 1985 and 1995 enormous investments in time and effort produced some of Virginia’s finest naturalized rock gardens and native plant horticulture. At the same time much of the existing forest was carefully studied and documented. It's a nationally unique project but remains very much a private endeavor. While a private property, the Preserve is open to the public routinely.

The original forest is unique and surprisingly diverse. White oaks, red oaks and chestnut oaks are dominant on the higher hills. Lower, wetter soils support beech, black gum, tulip poplar, witch hazel and stately sycamores along the main stream course. Many members of the Heath family are present. High bush blueberry, huckleberry, deerberry, dangleberry and staggerbush are all found on specific soil types. Mountain laurel is found in many locations creating a sensational show in late spring when its pleated white flowers bloom. Perhaps the native wild flowers are most unique on the site. Several stands of pink lady's slippers are located in the forest. These exquisite orchids sport their large trademark pink "slipper" shaped flowers. While fairly common in Virginia, these notable plants have never been successfully propagated. They are ecologically sensitive and should never be disturbed. Wild blue phlox, golden ragwort, bluebells, green and gold and Cardinal flower blanket some areas. Today the Preserve represents existing flora and intensive introduction of regional native species. The spring bloom is a notable show of supremely aesthetic, yet ecologically focused gardening.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Preserve is the subtle rock garden landscaping. While the underlying geology is a fascinating mix of gravel filled soils associated with the ancestral Potomac River course, there are no natural rock outcrops on the property. But the casual visitor is entirely fooled by the detailed naturalized rock work in the Preserve. Seams of boulders run along hillsides and expand into near cliff faces. Other areas embrace and stabilize stream sides as if deposited by glaciers a million years ago. But no glaciers reached Virginia during the last ice age. All this work was created by Gary Hopper, a Virginia based stone mason of near mythic reputation.  Every single manmade feature was planted with native species. Much of this initial work was coordinated by Horticulturist, Steve Hootman, now the longtime Director of the Rhododendron Species Foundation and one of the world’s most prolific plant explorers in temperate Asia. I also spent two years at the Preserve in the late eighties before joining Bishop Museum in Honolulu. With development all around, the Preserve is really an island of mature forest in an urban sea. When viewed on Google Earth it’s like a remarkable green pillow of mature tree canopies popping forth from the built environment.

The early nineties saw the installation of two lakes and the development of Catherine Lodge. The lodge entrance incorporates large logs and a deep porch, creating one of Northern Virginia’s most unique buildings. There’s no other structure in Alexandria like it. Staff, administrative offices and some exhibits are housed in the lodge. Directly across the lake a large water fall splashes down an intricately built cliff face. You can stand in front of the lodge and swear you’re in the Shenandoah’s or Adirondacks, yet you’re a few miles south of the Pentagon. A large portion of the Preserve was at risk from a Highway expansion a few years ago, but local opposition prevailed and the project was dropped.

Over the years the Preserve has evolved not only into a beautiful woodland garden but a very active environmental education center. Thoughtful children’s programs are led by staff members to many areas of the property. Public schools visit regularly. Towering trees and interpretive spaces make the site a superb outdoor classroom for all ages. We tend to think of these resources almost exclusively as public facilities. But thanks to the foresight of the Preserve’s founders, Alexandria is home to a truly unique naturalized woodland garden that conserves forty-four pristine acres and offers year around environmental education programs. It’s an extraordinary gift to the community and stands as an example of thoughtful urban development resulting in conservation of open space for the public good by a private entity.