The land
was originally secured in 1569 by
Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian
II. Initially used for breeding
game birds and hunting, boar and
deer where also cultivated on the
property. Ducks mingled on
stocked fish ponds as peafowl and
turkey wondered the grounds. Over nearly the next century hunting was the properties
primary function.
Overtime one of the world’s grandest Palaces would ultimately take shape on the site.
By 1638 the Katterburg Palace had been built. It’s name would change to Schönbrunn as
expansions took place. The name Schönbrunn means “beautiful spring”.
The Palace we
see today was constructed and remodeled between 1740 and 1758. Large scale
redecoration was commissioned by Franz the 1st with a focus on neoclassical style.
Austria’s longest reigning Emperor, Franz Joseph was born at Schönbrunn and lived
most of his long life there. He died in November of 1916 at 86 years old. At that time the
Palace was surrounded by some of Europe’s grandest gardens and conservatories.
Shortly thereafter it became a museum in the newly formed Austrian Republic. In 1996
the Palace and gardens received UNSECO designation on the World Heritage list. The Palace itself is so huge and fascinating the grounds can be overlooked by the casual
visitor. Yet the gardens and grounds make up a horticultural setting worthy of a visit on
its own; really a vast arboretum and botanical garden inlaid with fountains, specimen
trees and splendid ornamental horticultural displays.
On the east side of the palace one
finds a rose tunnel. At Schönbrunn its not enough to have a rose garden, so you can
stroll a one hundred foot long rose tunnel to the garden itself. Meticulously cultivated
onto an arching metal frame, thousands of red roses bloom with abandon. Beyond the
striking beauty one can’t help wonder the level of labor required for such a display.
Soon, you realize this applies to the entire property. Seemingly endless tulip beds form
meandering rivers of color toward bold displays of tropical palms nearly exploding
from pots the size of a compact car. Every Landscape detail is etched in living plant
material.
The hardscaping is similarly
amazing. At one point you’re
walking on fine river gravel
toward a circular fountain. A
few steps away, you arrive in a
tall hedge of European
basswood tightly trimmed and
tended by perfectly
interlocking random slate. This
in turn is hemmed in by moss
that nips and tucks each
irregularity on the stones
margins. The outdoor court yard might be 100 feet long by 100 feet wide containing
thousands of flat moss-clad stones. Sweeping lawns host a remarkable collection of
trees. Huge American white and red Oaks stand near European beech trees that may
predate the palace. Nearby the exquisite Lebanese cedar appears as the perfect wind swept conifer and massive dawn redwoods rise in a feathery cone toward the sun. And
of course there are fruit trees. Pears, apples and cherries bloom in anticipation of fall
fruits. Inside the giant Orangery citrus trees-oranges, limes, lemons, grapefruit and the
globous pomelos are carefully tended. Add the vineyards, boxwood maze and zoo
you’ll need an entire day.
For the garden enthusiast the site never fails to inspire wonder at how one of Europe’s
greatest monarchies lived among the pure magic of nearly endless gardens. Perhaps no
other aspect of the garden embodies this wonder more than the conservatories. Today
we are accustomed to large conservatories being a public facility. But Schönbrunn had
several just for the pleasure of the royals. The Palm House rivals many conservatories at
the worlds best public gardens-think of Kew Gardens, Longwood or the New York
Botanical Garden. For Schönbrunn this was just another amenity for royal strolls,
horseback adventures or a family picnic. The Palm house features plants from the wet
tropics of the world.
Indeed, many plants were sent back by European explores in the
new and old-world tropics. Tree ferns, fan palms and Ficus trees mix in the humid air
as numerous orchids decorate the entrance way.
But the humid tropics is just one aspect
of conservatory horticulture. A short
walk east and you can enjoy the dryland
conservatory where a large collection of
North American cacti mix with
Euphorbias from Africa and various
Mediterranean species. Detailed rock scaping backed by beautifully painted
sunset murals creates a remarkable
pallet of color and texture that can
nearly transport you to Namibia or
Arizona. Among the plants, several tortoises and lizards native to various deserts are
kept in adjacent enclosures.
Collectively the conservatories demonstrate a remarkable
commitment to estate horticulture rarely equaled in any royal residence.
Surely the grandest vista at Schönbrunn is from the back of the Palace looking toward
the hilltop and Gloriette. Today the Gloriette houses a restaurant and roof top viewing
area. Once you climb the hill, views back across several large knot gardens is awe
inspiring. The Palace spreads a giant span, perhaps five hundred feet across. The
magnitude of this view embodies the absolute grandeur of this vast palatial complex in
all its glory. Its worth touring the Palace and grounds- but a full day is recommended.
The royal tenants, endorsed by the Holy Roman Empire, lived a magnificent life among
the gardens. Today we can enjoy them too and marvel at the diverse horticultural
treasures of Schönbrunn.
From the BGT team- More info at www.schoenbrunn.at.en
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